In the Land of the Pure
Well, this is my first entry on my new blog. Since October 1st I’ve been in Pakistan, a name which translates as the “Land of the Pure.” I’ll start off with random observations.
I missed New England’s autumn, and the climate (triple H – hot, hazy, humid) was difficult to adjust to at first. I’ve seen some exotic things. No, no flying carpets. I have so far been on camel rides, rode on a beautifully ornamented rickshaw (the buses and trucks are even better looking), and watched a snake charmer performance. I’ve also been to several weddings and religious celebrations. These are big events here! Lots of food, lots of dancing, lots of music. The food at the street bazaars is very tasty, once you get past the swarm of flies. Some stores sell elaborate shishas (hookas) with several flavors of tabacco. There are fakirs (ascetics) and hejiras (transvestites) wandering the streets. Men often hold each other’s hands in public, which is not considered gay.
There are also many sad-looking beggars, male and female, of all ages. Some have babies in their arms. I’m unsure if I should give to them. I feel bad, but I don’t know if they’re legitimate or part of a racket. I’ve seen many crippled men without hands, arms, or feet (I’ve heard that some people cut off limbs if they owe them money so they can beg to pay them back).
I’ve seen vehicles paid for by the World Bank and UN trucks distributing medicine to the hospitals in poor areas. I don’t know enough about Pakistan’s economic situation to say what should be done. Supposedly jobs have grown since President/General Musharraf’s rule, but the gap between rich and poor is quite prominent. Most people are employed in some capacity, but this does not necessarily mean they have much purchasing power. There are both state-run and commercial banks. Saudis have a lot of clout. Their embassy is really well-guarded by uniformed soldiers. The biggest mansions I’ve seen are owned by, I believe, Arabs from the UAE.
There’s a lot of trash and rubble in streets. Some areas of the city are clean and orderly, but probably 50% of what I’ve seen looks like an unfinished construction project. Pollution is a problem. Cars have now switched to CNG (compressed natural gas) which is better for air quality. There is a debate over whether it would help the economy if they switched to liquid petrol.
Pakistanis have been very nice to me; they are known for their hospitality. Sometimes people stare at me, but rarely does it feel hostile. Even if it is, I haven’t felt unsafe or in danger for my life since I’ve been here. Even security guards, who carry rifles, are friendly. I’ve seen one wall with graffiti stating “down with America and Israel,” but most graffiti is not political. I sense that it comes from bored teenagers who write things like “funter boyz.” I’m unsure what this means, like, if it’s a misspelling of “frontier.” Is this an imitation of American urban culture? I do know there is a sort of imitative hardcore hip-hop and gang culture among some of the rich teenagers.
There was concern when North Korea conducted its nuclear test. I debated with some, arguing that it’s unlikely Kim Jong Il will use it because he’s likely doing this for attention (so he can blackmail the US for aid, mostly likely). What concerns me most is if he sells nukes to hostile parties. I noticed that while there is a lot of interest in politics and world events, there is a similar type of nationalism and denial here as there is in the US. Stores carry a film about how the Bush Administration carried out the 9/11 attacks. I don’t believe this premise (though conspiracy buffs in the US also think that). At worst, there’s a chance they may have known a terrorist strike was imminent and didn’t prevent it in order to boost approval ratings and justify war policies in the name of security. I’ve come across intelligent and educated Pakistanis who are against Bin Laden, but think that no Muslims were involved in 9/11. They don’t believe the evidence that a member of Pakistan’s spy agency gave money to al Qaeda to fund terrorism. (See: http://www.dawn.com/2004/07/22/latest.htm)
It’s hard to tell how much support there is for Musharraf (he is a dictator, after all). The liberal newspaper Dawn slammed his autobiography as self-serving and revisionist. If there were elections for executive posts today, I don’t know how it would turn out, assuming they weren’t rigged. An Islamist party got a record 11% of the congressional votes. The good news is that most Pakistanis are religious moderates, favor domestic reforms, and want peace with India.
Some in America are asking if Pakistan is really our friend. What I wonder is whether America, or at least its current administration, is really Pakistan’s friend. They’re certainly not equal partners. The wars in Afghanistan have not been good for Pakistan, and past US involvement in this country’s affairs is at best a mixed record. I truly pray that the war on terrorism ends soon. I would like to see issues like trade policy and environmental health on the international table, rather than the use of military force.
